How to Remove Rust From a Car

There are many reasons for a car to develop rust spots. The main reason is when the paint is chipped or scratched through the primer coat, perhaps by stones on the road or a minor car accident, and the metal underneath is exposed to moisture and air, which causes the metal to oxidize. A rust spot increases and spreads with time, especially with each rain or snow storm. Whether you plan on keeping it or selling it, your car will look cleaner without the rust. Others judge you by your own appearance, by your speech, and by the car you drive, so take the time to remove the rust spots and give the car a painting before the entire car ends up covered in rust.

Steps

1. 1
   Take safety precautions. Wear gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask.(There may be some extreme situations that you may need a respirator.)There will be fine rust and paint dust as well as paint spray everywhere; you don't want it in your eyes or lungs.
   Ads by Google

   Expansation Joint

   and Muffler, Silencer Big stock, delivery Worldwide
   ets-engineering.us
2. 2
   Cover up any parts of the car that you don't want to get dusty. Use a tarp sealed with painter's tape to define your work area.
3. 3
   Masking the car off is a very important step that can go wrong in a lot of ways. Do not use newspaper as shown in the pictures; paint spray can leak through it and leave specks on your clear windows. Use something less thin porous like real masking paper. Also, simply covering up a surface is not enough; paint spray can find its way underneath edges, so you must tape every single edge of your masking paper down, not just the ones needed to get it to stay in place.
4. 4
   Do not actually place your masking job like the way that is shown in the pictures; you don't want the masking to stop in the middle of a panel or you will be left with sharp lines like those shown in another picture here. These lines do not go away with any amount of buffing or addition of clearcoat layers; they will be permanent if you do it this incorrect way. The only option is prevention by masking the car correctly in the first place, by stopping at panel lines and going no farther inward (or better yet, stopping a few panels away so there isn't a drastic color difference between one panel in the next, but this requires learning how to gradually blend paint, which is done when spraying, not after the fact).
5. 5
   Remove the paint around the rust with DA (dual action) sander. A DA sander gives you control over the speed of the sander while removing the paint. Start with 80 grit and work you way up to 150 grit. Use the DA sander with (80-150 grit) to take off both the primer and paint, as well as any light rust that hasn't fused with the metal, and level the surface between the painted surface and the unpainted area. Feel with your fingers for a smooth surface.
   
   
   

   Remove the paint around the rust with DA (dual action) sander.
6. 6
   

   Switch to a metal grinding wheel for removing the thick rust and getting into any pits.
   Switch to a metal grinding wheel for removing the thick rust and getting into any pits. When using the wheel, go slowly, because these can do a lot of damage. Once this is done apply rust removing acid to the area to remove the microscopic particles of rust that remain. Phosphoric acid is best and can be bought at most auto parts stores. If you want, use a hole spot filler or a body filler like Bondo to even out some of the dents, and fill the space where the paint is gone. Finish off by sanding by hand (120 grit sandpaper) to get a nice smooth metal surface.
7. 7
   Purchase primer that is ideal for painting on bare metal and an auto spray that matches the color of your car. Both of these supplies can be found at an auto supply store.
8. 8
   Prepare the spot for priming. Follow the instructions for your primer. Typically, what you will need to do is:
   
   
   • Wipe the area with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
   • 

     Tape newspaper on all surrounding areas within three feet.
     Tape newspaper on all surrounding areas within three feet.
9. 9
   

   Spray thin coats of primer evenly.
   Spray thin coats of primer evenly. Spray three coats of primer, waiting a few minutes between coats. Allow to dry over night (at least 12 hours).
10. 10
    Sand with 400 grit wet sandpaper. This abrasive is specifically made for sanding between paint coats to smooth the surface and degloss, so the paint bonds. Keep a bucket of water handy to rinse the sandpaper frequently, so it does not get fouled with paint. Wash painted area with light soap water mix.
11. 11
    

    Spray a thin coat of paint so as not to let the paint run or sag.
    Spray a thin coat of paint so as not to let the paint run or sag. Use as many coats of paint over the primer as you need in order to achieve a nice color and finish. Let it set at least 24 hours before pulling off the tape.
12. 12
    

    Buff the edges of the new paint so that it blends with the old paint.
    Buff the edges of the new paint so that it blends with the old paint. If necessary, apply a clear coat to match of the finish on the rest of the car.
13. 13
    

    Allow the paint to cure for 48 hours.
    Allow the paint to cure for 48 hours. Wash and polish the car. Never wax fresh paint within 30 days of painting!
    Ads by Google

    Best Differential Shaft

    Frustrated? Our shaft won't wobble, slip, or leave dust on your cores.
    www.differentialshaft.com

    Stop Rust and Corrosion

    Time & Industry proven coating requires no prep and only 1 coat
    www.sanchem.com

       Tips

• 
  If the rust spots are on or around the fender, it may be useful to jack the car safely with a chock behind one of the wheels. Pull off the wheel and unscrew the plastic protecting the wheel well. Doing so will give you a chance to pound out any dents from the inside, and will also allow more room for grinding and painting.
• 
  Alternative to this lengthy process is Rust converters, those are primers designed to be applied directly to a rusty surface. Unlike the standard scrape, prime, and paint regime, the user does not have to bring the surface down to bare metal. There are two primary components in a rust converter: a tannin and an organic polymer. The organic polymer provides a protective primer layer.The tannin reacts with the iron oxide, converting it to iron tannate, a stable blue/black corrosion product. You can find a can of that in Walmart for $3 or so.
• Rust converter from a non-spray bottle is excellent for small chips, even if they have not yet begun to rust. Pour out a little in a paper cup (that portion goes bad promptly after being contaminated by bits of rust and the excess must be thrown away). Dab it on up to the edges of the good paint with a toothpick. Wait several hours for it to finish reacting and dry before doing anything else to the car (it can be driven once it is dried enough not to run) It leaves a dull black coating that looks like a little tar spot and is generally not noticeable against a medium or dark or metallic color. Touch-up paint will stick to it.
• If the car has significant rust that covers a large area of the body, you may want to leave it to the professionals.

Ads by Google

aerosol filling machine

state-of-the-art, modern, reputed competitive pricing, Email us
en.jsmeida.com

Plastic Grass Paving Grid

Grass pavers for ground and grass reinforcement for car parks &drives
www.boddingtons-ltd.com

        Warnings

• Propellants have explosive properties, so do not allow any sparks or flames, including lit cigarettes, near the work area during the entire rust removal process.
• Wear gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask to prevent rust and paint dust from irritating or injuring you.
• If using phosphoric acid BE SURE TO READ AND FOLLOW instructions on the product packaging

                                       http://www.wikihow.com/