Warnings

• Check Warranty: Check the terms and conditions before repairing your vehicle on your own while if it is still under warranty. Unless you are a certified mechanic, this may invalidate your warranty.
• Beware First-time Repairs: Do not attempt to complete repairs on your vehicle without supervision if you have never attempted a repair before. Today's cars are complex jigsaw-puzzles and might require removing several components to reach one particular screw. Get help at first.
• Avoid pot-holes: which can knock air out of tires or dislodge weights to throw tires out of balance. (If you do hit a pot hole and it damages your car, contact your municipal government, they may reimburse you for the damages)
• Avoid Fuel-additives: Only injector cleaner additives are of value, don't bother with octane boosters just buy premium fuel.
• Avoid engine oil FLUSH if your motor is sludged up because of missed oil changes these flushes can make a large chunk of sludge come off and block an oil channel. Only use if your mechanic says you must.

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How to Extend the Life of Your Car

2. Drive less. Especially, avoid short trips. Cold starts are hard on engines, your gas mileage, and the environment. Short trips can also significantly shorten the life of your muffler. Basically, you get condensation in the exhaust when you start a cold engine, and if you don't run the car for long enough to evaporate all of the condensation out of the system, excessive amounts of water can accumulate in your muffler, and rust a hole through it. Avoid starting a cold car just to pull it into the garage, for instance. Consider walking to the nearest store for a change. Combine short errands, and, if you have multiple vehicles, drive the one more recently driven when you go out again. Do drive a car at least every week or so, since cars that sit for longer than a week or two at a time have other problems, such as fluids gradually draining out of systems. Consult a mechanic if you will store a car for an extended period.
3. 3
   Check the fluids: You should check the level of your antifreeze, oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and brake fluid, very regularly: like every time you buy gas. Even if your car doesn't leak fluids, it can develop a leak and quickly have a dangerously low level of something. You should also check the color of some of these fluids. Some of these have see-through plastic tanks that you can look through, and some have dipsticks. Antifreeze should be either pink, green, or yellow (Pink for newer cars with "Dex-Cool", green for old cars with plain Ethyl-Glycol, and green or yellow for cars that have been flushed and filled with universal antifreezes...brown antifreeze should always be flushed, it either has rust or a lot of dirt in it, probably both. Also, never mix antifreezes; if you don't know what color antifreeze your car has, buy a universal brand. Oil should be relatively clear, not black - black oil has been left in the engine for too long. Oil that looks white and milkshake-like has water in it, probably from an internal antifreeze leak, or very rarely, just a large amount of condensation. Transmission fluid should be bright red, and should not smell burnt...it probably needs to be changed if it's brown or smells burnt.
4. 4
   

   Fresh, clean oil.
   Change the oil regularly: This will improve your gas mileage and protect your engine. The recommended mileage between oil changes is 3,000 - 5,000 miles (or 5000 - 8000 kilometres) or every 3 to 6 months. Doing this could make it possible for your vehicle to attain 200,000 miles. Change the oil filter as well - there is no sense in putting clean oil through a dirty filter, and filters are very cheap and available at any parts store. Please check your service manual, or contact your dealer for your car's specific needs.
5. 5
   Change the air filter: This is something you can do easily at home without using tools, and should be done approximately every 12 thousand miles. You can buy a matching filter at nearly any auto parts store and your owner's manual will show you where your air filter is located. A dirty, dusty filter can lower gas mileage.
6. 6
   Flush these fluids every two years: power steering fluid, brake fluid, and cooling system anti-freeze. Check this timetable against your owner's manual. Newer cars generally allow longer intervals between changes. Change transmission fluid & filter at least every 50,000 miles (40k to 45k is even better). If you have gone over 50,000 miles without a change, on many transmissions, it is best to NOT change it and hope for the best. Often putting new transmission fluid in a trans that has too many miles on the fluid will actually cause problems because it can break down 'varnish' and other gums/solids that have built up in the trans due to over-used fluid.
7. 7
   Monitor your brake pad thickness and don't let the pads wear down to metal - this will cause damage to your brake rotors ("discs") at least and possibly your calipers as well. Rotors and calipers are much more expensive to replace than pads. There is no such thing as "cleaning" a brake pad while it is still on a car - the friction between the pad and rotor will eradicate any outside substance almost immediately.
8. 8
   Rotate the tires. Changing tire position is very important and reduces uneven wear and tear on the tread, thus extending the life of the tires. The recommended rotation cycle is twice a year or every 6,000 miles. Rotate them diagonally - front right to rear left and front left to rear right. However, this pattern can change depending on the drivetrain of the vehicle, and the type of tire. Your vehicle manual will contain detailed rotation information. Keep in mind some tires (especially on sports cars) are directional and are meant to spin only one way. They will have a large arrow on the sidewall to indicate this.
9. 9
   Keep the tires inflated. Under-inflated tires can reduce the tire life by 15% and will slightly decrease your gas mileage, perhaps by 10%. Inflating tires is perhaps the easiest of all activities, and many stores sell tire gauges for a very small cost. Checking your tire pressure every other time you get gas will reduce tire wear and prevent these issues. Monitor your tire tread with a penny. Insert the penny into the tread with Lincoln's head down. If the top of his head is not obscured by the tread, your tires need to be replaced. Basically, if you can see all of Lincoln's head, you must replace your tires.
10. 10
    Keep the front end aligned. If you notice your car shaking while driving at high speeds (not while braking - shuddering while braking indicates warped rotors), or if your tread is wearing unevenly, then you may need an alignment. This is also key to extending the life of your tires and will keep the tread even for increased safety.
11. 11
    Get your car off to a good start every time you drive it. Start the car and drive off slowly and gently until the car reaches operating temperature. This reduces the strain on the engine while the oil is still cold and thicker. Another option is to use electric engine space heaters, and start the drive with a warm engine. Accelerate promptly to the target speed. For most modern cars, idling a cold engine is both counterproductive and wasteful. Additionally, as you accelerate, release the gas a bit to cause the automatic transmission to upshift while you are not pressing hard on the gas. This causes less wear on the internal clutches. It is easier on the clutches for the car to shift when you ease up on the gas.
12. 12
    Use your parking brake. Even if you are driving a car with an automatic transmission, use your parking brake regularly, especially if you're parked on an incline. It helps keep the brakes adjusted in the rear of the car and makes them last longer. Do not use your parking brake in the winter time because your brake will freeze and it will be stuck until it thaws out.
13. 13
    Wash your car: Road salt, sludge and pollution can lead to costly body work. Without regular cleaning, you can start to notice rust on the bottom of your doors within four years. Another three to four years and the corrosion will creep to underbody components, like brake lines. It can cost thousands in rust-related repairs if you neglect to wash your car, especially near ocean/gulf shorelines where the road sand or morning dew might be salty.
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Edit Tips

• The best thing that you can do to extend the life of your car and potentially save yourself a bundle of money is to have your car serviced on a routine basis. All car manufacturers have a schedule of recommended service for each vehicle they sell. Follow this schedule. The best place to have work done on a new vehicle that is still under warranty is the dealership. On cars without a warranty, it is best to find a reputable independent shop and have it serviced regularly there.
• Check your local auto parts dealer for manuals specific to your car for complete instructions on how to perform basic maintenance on your vehicle. Often, you will save a bundle of cash doing simple tune-up work on your own. Schucks and Autozone are great stores that have these manuals.
• If your user manual says it's best to let the car warm up a little first before forcing it to apply power to the wheels, it's best to follow it and do so; for as written several times before, the people who made it know best.
• Manual transmission cars or cars with turbo/superchargers will require different maintenance schedules, depending on the climate, road conditions. Always consult your owner's manual or ask a local dealership service department.
• Synthetic oils may be initially more expensive, but provide better protection than regular motor oil. Oils have a grade SM is the newest and provides most protection. Oils have a viscosity Cold and Hot, make sure you have the right grade for summer and winter especially if you live where it snows. The most important thing is to use a quality branded oil. Good oils are honey coloured when new. CHANGE THE OIL EVERY 3 TO 6 MONTHS MAX, OR SOONER IF YOU REACH 10000 KM (6000 MILES). Check the fine print of the car manual. Many European cars have claimed 15,000 km between oil changes. But now all over the world owners are discovering this is too long and they have expensive engine repairs.
• Regular oil changes are a very cheap insurance and you get better mileage anyway. Always warm up at least 30 seconds. IF you are headed straight onto a freeway on ramp, let the engine warm up before you take off, otherwise you do a lot of high speed driving cold, not good for the engine

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How to Extend the Life of Your Car

With rising gas prices and very costly repairs, the last thing you want to worry about is if and when your car is going to break down. Here's how to protect your investment, and get from Point A to Point B as reliably as possible.Read the car's manual and schedule maintenance accordingly. Keeping up with your car's recommended maintenance schedule can help avoid costly problems with your cooling system, drivetrain, suspension and other components; following the recommended schedule also helps ensure you the get the full benefit of the manufacturer's warranty. 

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Car Maintenance : How to Change Your Oil

 

What's Your Engine Oil Telling You?

Analyzing the oil in your car is like sending a sample of your blood to the lab — it reveals an astonishing amount of information about the inner workings of your engine without invasive surgery. By reading the results of the analysis, you can fine-tune the intervals between oil changes and discover problems — such as a leaking head gasket — before they cause more expensive damage.
You might even consider analyzing the oil from a car you are considering buying. Currently this is popular with airplane, boat and heavy equipment buyers, but at least one company may soon offer this as an option for used car shoppers as well.

Test-Driving Oil Analysis

We sent two samples of engine oil to Blackstone Laboratories in Fort Wayne, Indiana, to see what we could learn about a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant with 80,000 miles on its four-cylinder engine. The first sample was oil that had been used for 3,000 miles. The second sample was taken right after an oil change at a Jiffy Lube.
The 3,000-mile oil still had plenty of life left in it, according to the lab results. Blackstone recommended we try increasing the oil change interval to 5,000 miles and send another sample for analysis at that point. Furthermore, the report said the wear metals in the oil were within normal levels, meaning that the engine was not in immediate danger of breaking down. By detecting specific wear metals in the oil, experts can tell which engine parts might be in danger of malfunctioning.
Since the purpose of oil is to lubricate, clean and cool the engine, a TBN (total base number) is used to measure the deterioration of the oil by assigning a number that is usually between 0 and 8. The TBN of the 3,000-mile oil was 3.7. The Jiffy Lube oil was 7.6 indicating it had been barely used.
"Even if the TBN is 1, it doesn't mean the oil isn't doing its job," said Ryan Stark, president of Blackstone Laboratories. "But it does reveal the rate at which the additives are being used up."

Oil Analysis, a Growing Business

Stark said that his company, which employs six analysts, gets about 20 new customers a day and does between 40,000 and 50,000 reports per year. A single analysis costs $22.50 but discounts are available for multiple analyses. Blackstone can also analyze transmission fluid and other engine fluids to look for possible problems.
Many other laboratories offer engine oil analysis, but Blackstone's reports are user-friendly, and the turnaround is quick. Within days of our mailing in two 4-ounce samples, the results were e-mailed to us.
"We've had customers who were changing their oil every 3,000 miles and now they've gone to every 10,000 miles because of our reports," said Stark. "But we're conservative. If the oil looks good at 3,000 miles we recommend increasing the frequency by 2,000 miles and taking another look at it."

A Used-Car Buying Tool?

A Long Beach, California, company that provides pre-purchase inspections for private parties is breaking new ground by planning to offer engine oil analysis to private-party used car buyers.
"With an oil sample test, which essentially is the DNA of a car's engine and transmission, we can detect any excessive conditions that can lead to serious mechanical problems down the road," said Alliance Inspection Management Vice President of Sales Eric Widmer.
If the oil sample result meets industry standards, a limited warranty will be offered to the buyer. Edmer said this was the first time an inspection service has used this method to qualify a buyer for a warranty. It would, Edmer points out, provide a level of confidence for used-car buyers shopping for a reliable car.
Stark said that some of Blackstone's customers have sent samples from cars they were considering buying but it's far more common practice with buyers of airplanes, boats, motorcycles or even jet skis.

How To Take an Engine Oil Sample

We took the Mitsubishi samples by sliding under the car, unscrewing the oil filter and draining the oil into a glass jar. The jar was sealed securely, wrapped in padding and Fed Exed to Blackstone.
Taking a sample in this manner is messy, and you can burn your hand on the hot oil filter. Instead, you'll want to use a vacuum pump that takes a sample through the dipstick opening. Such a pump is available from Blackstone or other oil analysis labs.

Oil Analysis for Do-It-Yourselfers

Car owners who enjoy changing their own oil will find oil analysis an inexpensive test and easy to perform as part of engine maintenance. It helps consumers tailor their oil change intervals and experiment with the benefits of different oils such as synthetic blends. Furthermore, some people might try it as a used car shopping tool next time they are looking for a reliable car.
Then again, there is the pure love of knowledge that such a test provides. For a gearhead, that's an end in itself. "For years and years no one knew when to change the oil, so they went with three months and 3,000 miles," Stark said. "Now, we can provide a service that's a good value to people so they really know what's best for their engine." 

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10 Thing Not to Say When Buying a Car

So you’ve decided to buy a new or pre-owned car. You know the make, model and year of the chariot. You even know what features you want. Now it’s time to head to your local dealer and sign on the bottom line, right? Not by a long shot. It’s now time to negotiate price. If you want to get the most bang for your buck, here are 10 phrases you should never utter in earshot of a car dealer — and why.

“I’m trying to keep my monthly payments down.”

Click to enlarge picture
Know the maximum you are willing to spend over the life of your loan before you start to negotiate.

Families think in terms of their monthly budgets, but most experts agree that’s not the way to price out a car. “Don’t be bamboozled by some superficially attractive monthly payment,” says Joe Ridout, spokesperson for Consumer Action, a nonprofit advocacy group. “There are a lot of ways for a dealer to make monthly payments appear low.” Before you walk into the dealer, know the maximum you are willing to spend over the life of your loan. By stretching the term by a year or two, a dealership can easily bring a $400 monthly payment down to a $300 payment, but you could end up paying thousands more in interest.

“Honey, what do you think?”

Click to enlarge picture
Put up a unified front by knowing what you want before visiting a dealer. Otherwise, you can lose your negotiating position.

Dealers love indecisive couples. By subtly playing a husband and wife against each other (“Seems your wife’s really interested in the luxury package; she’s obviously got good taste.”), buyers are routinely talked into things they might not have otherwise considered.  “Never show emotion,” says Robert Sinclair Jr. of the American Automobile Association of New York. “If one of you gets all excited or emotionally attached to a vehicle, then you lose your negotiating position.” Couples buying a vehicle should have a very good idea of what model vehicle they want, what options they are interested in and how much they are willing to spend before they walk into the dealership. If unforeseen issues pop up that merit further discussion, don’t be afraid to ask the dealer to give you some time alone for discussion before making a decision — better yet, sleep on it — then come back as a unified force.

“I have a car to trade in; how does that affect the deal?”

Click to enlarge picture
Get the right price on the car you’re buying before even mentioning the possibility of a trade-in, and know the market value of both.

Don’t discuss a trade-in until you’ve settled on a price for the car you’re buying. Making one deal contingent upon the other just allows the dealer more flexibility in his negotiations. Do your research on the value of both vehicles and get the right price on the car you’re buying before you even mention the possibility of a trade-in. The truth is, you’ll almost always get a better price if you sell your old vehicle yourself. A dealer trade-in is a convenience, but he’s not doing you any favors. Make sure you do your research on the true price of your desired vehicle as well as the value of your trade-in (MSN Autos has tools for determining both) before you arrive at the dealership, and be prepared to sell your old car somewhere else if the dealer doesn’t offer a fair price.

“Let’s talk financing!”

Click to enlarge picture
Don’t let the rate of a loan influence the price of the car, and don’t be afraid to shop around. Dealers rarely offer the best terms.

Again, settle on the price of the vehicle you’re interested in before you bring up financing — don’t let the rate of a loan influence the price of the car. These days, loans may be harder to come by, but Consumer Action’s Ridout suggests that credit unions still offer the lowest rates. “Show up at the dealer with an offer ready to go,” he says, “then see if the dealer will beat it.” If the dealer is offering special low financing rates as an incentive from the manufacturer, see if you can turn that into cash back on the car instead. Then go shop around for the lowest rate from a third party. Also, keep in mind that advertised rates are usually for the shortest possible term (usually 36 months). If you stretch out the terms, the price can go up steeply — make sure you calculate the total cost of the loan and make sure there is no early payment penalty.

“Here’s how much I have to spend.”

Click to enlarge picture
Don’t just blurt out how much you want to spend. Discuss the car and the options, then let the dealer make the first offer.

Avoid tipping your hand right when you walk in the door. You have no idea how much the salesperson is willing to deal, but if you blurt out your target price, you can be sure that he’s not going to offer you anything lower than that. Discuss the car and the options you’re interested in and let the dealer make the first offer — these days, inventories are so large that dealers will sometimes sell at invoice just to get cars off the lot. Right now, it’s a definite buyer’s market


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Oil Leaking From the Bottom of an Old Maytag Washer

1. Transmission

   • A common place for an older Maytag washing machine to leak is from the transmission. Maytag, along with other washing machine manufacturers, made design changes to their washers' transmissions after 1995 to limit the occurrence of oil leaks as the component wears. However, washers made before these changes were implemented are prone to leak. In general, once a transmission starts to leak oil under the washer, it must be replaced; a leaky transmission can’t be repaired. The remedy will ultimately depend on whether or not it’s leaking everywhere or just from the seal on the drive tube.

   Drive Tube Seal

   • On the transmission’s drive tube near its spline is a seal that prevents oil from leaking out of most Maytag washers. If the seal breaks, oil can empty out of the transmission from the bottom of the washer. Sometimes replacing a broken seal and adding more oil will fix the problem as long as the loss of oil didn’t damage the transmission in other ways and cause certain components to cease. Contact Maytag to inspect the transmission and pinpoint the leak spot. If the technician determines that the transmission could be salvaged if the seal were replaced, swap out the faulty seal for a new one.

   Motor

   • Like a washing machine’s transmission, its motor also operates with oil and can develop a leak over time with normal use. Additionally, a leaky motor will deposit oil in the bottom of the washer’s cabinet that will eventually end up on the laundry room floor. As the oil leaks out, the motor will lose some of its capacity to agitate and spin the washtub. Contact Maytag to request that a technician assess the motor’s condition. If the leak is fairly minor, it might be repairable. However, if the leak has gotten so bad that the motor is severely damaged, consider purchasing a new washer.

   Rust

   • Confirm that oil is leaking from your Maytag washer, not rust-colored water. Given that your washing machine is an older model, it’s possible that water could be leaking from the washtub or water valve that might look like oil when in fact it’s not. Although a rusty, leaky valve is repairable, a cracked washtub isn’t and is expensive to replace.

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Oil Leaking From the Bottom of an Old Maytag Washer

Oil leaks are usually not a good sign when it comes to washing machines, regardless of the brand you own. A washing machine that drips oil will usually require a major part replacement to keep it running. Rather than repair your old Maytag washer, you might be better off upgrading to a new one if you find oil leaking from the bottom of the machine.

Top 10 cars maintenance misakes

Compared to the family trucksters of a generation ago, modern cars require about as much maintenance as a toaster. This is a real liberation from the oil, lube and tune merry-go-round that ruled not so long ago.
Curiously, many people haven't adjusted their thinking to keep pace with new car maintenance schedules. The preoccupied still run their daily drivers without service until the dash warning lights burn out, while over-achievers fret about running synthetic oil more than 2,500 miles without a change.
Although maintenance intervals are now more widely spaced, even the newest cars require scheduled service to live long, productive lives. Whether yours is the latest model or you paid it off years ago, the trick is giving your car the maintenance it was designed to receive.
Surprisingly, the answer to what maintenance is required is hiding no farther away than the glove box. Every car is supplied with a maintenance schedule — in the owner's manual or in a separate maintenance log book — that details that vehicle's needs. A few minutes assimilating these requirements will help you avoid the following common car-maintenance pitfalls.
Proper Tire Inflation and Rotation
Tires leak naturally and need the occasional check. Figuratively speaking, underinflated tires suck up gasoline. Under- or overinflated tires wear out sooner, and deliver the same emergency maneuver handling as marshmallows. You probably aren't going to check tire pressures monthly, but how about twice a year?
Furthermore, front and rear tires wear differently and should be rotated to even that wear. Your owner's manual will have a recommendation on both pressure and rotation periods.
What other car maintenance mistakes should be added to this list?
Wiper Tales
Here's a news flash: It's much easier to avoid hitting things you can see. Simple as it is, that's the concept behind replacing your windshield wipers before they fossilize into noisy uselessness.
Fall is the ideal wiper replacement time: after the blade-baking summer and before the fall and winter nastiness. Depending on location, wiper replacement may be an annual affair in the Southwest to a biannual chore in northern climes.
Tune-Up Anachronism
There are no more "tune-ups." Valves no longer need adjusting, ignition timing is computer controlled and there are no carburetors to fiddle with. About all that's left of the old tune-up drill are the spark plugs. These are often good for 100,000 miles, so don't change parts just to change parts. Instead, save up for those big 60,000- and 120,000-mile services when the timing belt, spark plug wires and coolant are due for replacement.
Octane Overdose
"If some is good, more is better" thinking does not apply to octane. Here the rule is to supply whatever octane the engine is rated for and call it done. Higher-than-required octane does not yield more power or mileage, only oil company profits.
Some engines are rated for premium 91 octane fuel but can burn 87 octane regular, thanks to the magic of knock sensors. In that case, run regular gas if puttering around surface streets, and premium fuel if full-throttle driving is part of your daily repertoire.

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Visually check the engine coolant level in the overflow tank. Your owner's manual has the directions. The level should be between "Low" and "Full" marks. (Don't open the radiator cap or the pressurized overflow tank cap when the engine is hot! The cooling system is under pressure when hot!) If the coolant level is low, you can top it up using recommended type of coolant mixed with water. Again, your owner's manual has the proper way to do it.

Add coolant only when the engine is cool. Use only recommended engine coolant. Sometimes the engine coolant is sold already premixed with water and sometimes you will have to mix it. Check you owner's manual or read the directions on the coolant bottle. Carefully add the coolant into the overflow tank to make it between "LOW" and "FULL" marks.

If the coolant level drops within a short time after topping up, there may be a leak. Have the coolant system checked - lack of coolant may cause the engine to overheat which may result in serious damage.

How to check automatic transmission fluid.

An automatic transmission depends on the transmission fluid for transferring engine power to the wheels, shifting gears, lubricating moving parts and cooling down the transmission. Check the transmission fluid when your car is serviced and change it as recommended.

Different cars have different ways of checking the transmission fluid level; some require the engine to be shut off (e.g. Honda), some cars don't have a transmission dipstick at all and the fluid can only be checked in a repair shop. Check your owner's manual for proper procedure. This is how the transmission fluid checked on most cars:

After the vehicle was driven for a while to let the transmission fluid warm up, place your vehicle on a level ground. Set the parking brake. Make sure the transmission is in "P" (Park) position. Leave the engine running. Find the automatic transmission dipstick (your owner's manual will tell you where it is located). Pull the dipstick out.

Wipe the dipstick off with a clean lint-free rag. Insert it back fully. Pull it out again and check the fluid level. A transmission fluid expands when warmed up, so if the car has been driven for a while (20-30 minutes), the transmission level should be between "HOT" marks. If the vehicle is cold, the level should be between "COOL" marks. Check the fluid condition: a very dirty fluid with strong burnt smell is a warning sign of transmission problems. Normally the automatic transmission fluid should be clean and transparent, as in these photos.

On most cars the new transmission fluid comes red (photo on the left). Over the time it becomes brownish, as in the photo below.

This is how the synthetic transmission fluid looks after two years of driving - it's still clean and transparent. If your fluid looks very dark or dirty, check your owner's manual, maybe it's time to change it. Some manufacturers require to change the transmission fluid at 30,000 or 50,000 miles others specify that you never have to change it - check what's your car owner's manual says.

If the transmission fluid level is low, you can top it up, but be careful not to overfill it. Overfilling the transmission can cause problems. It's very important to use only specified transmission fluid type - check your owners manual or simply visit your local dealer, they always have proper transmission fluid in stock. Incorrect fluid type can damage your transmission. How to top up the transmission fluid: Using a thin funnel, add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe. Wait for a few minutes - let the fluid drain down. Recheck the level again. Don't overfill.  http://www.ehow.com

How to check the engine oil

Check the engine oil regularly, especially if you notice that the oil level drops between the oil changes. The engine oil cools down and lubricates the engine. Driving with very low oil level can cause engine problems.

Park your vehicle on a level ground. Set the parking brake. Make sure the transmission is in "Park". Stop the engine. Wait for a minute or two to let the engine oil drain into the oil pan. Pull the engine oil dipstick. If you don't know where is it located, check your owner's manual, usually it has a bright handle saying "Engine Oil".

Wipe the dipstick off. Insert it back fully. Pull it out again and check the oil level.

The oil level should be between the "Low" and "Full" marks. In this photo the level is OK and the oil looks clean.

Check the oil condition: If it's way too black, as in the left photo, it's definitely time to change it. If it's brown, but still clean and transparent, as in the right photo, it's OK. If the engine oil has a "coffee with milk" color it means that the engine coolant mixes with the oil. This is a sign of some internal engine problem, such as, for example, a leaking head gasket - have your car checked out. If the oil looks OK, but the level is low, you can just top it up.

To top up the engine oil use a recommended type of oil; for example, if your owner's manual or the oil filler cap indicates SAE 5W-20, use the SAE 5W-20 oil. If your engine needs a synthetic oil, use only synthetic oil. You can find the recommended oil type for your car in your owner's manual.

How to top up the engine oil: Add a little amount of the oil into the oil filler neck. Wait for a minute to let the oil to pour down. Check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it's still low, add some more. But don't overfill it. Don't forget to install the dipstick back and close the oil filler cap when you finished.  http://www.ehow.com

cars maintenance basic

It's really not that difficult to keep your car in good shape. Here are the basics:
- Read your car owner's manual, it has all the information on car maintenance as well as safety precautions.
- Keep all the fluids (e.g. engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant, etc.) clean and topped up.
- Follow your maintenance schedule, there is a number of things that need to be regularly serviced or replaced at certain intervals (e.g. brakes, air filter, timing belt, spark plugs, etc.)
- Check tire pressure regularly.
- Change you windshield wipers if they don't clean properly.
- Wash and wax your vehicle once in a while to keep the car finish shiny and protected from corrosion.
- Deal with any problems as soon as they arise, before they become more serious and require expensive repairs.
- Use only original parts.
- At least once a year have your car check out in a garage.


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